Take Your Pick.
About Rhipsalis.
Rhipsalis Paradoxa
Rhipsalis Pilocarpa
Rhipsalis Baccifera
Rhipsalis Capilliformis
Rhipsalis Unknown
Rhipsalis Ramulosa
Rhipsalis Cereuscula
Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides
Rhipsalis Ewaldiana
Rhipsalis Agudoensis
Rhipsalis Clavata
Rhipsalis Pentaptera
Rhipsalis Micrantha
Rhipsalis Lindbergiana - Coming Soon
Photos.
About Rhipsalis.
Rhipsalis are a flowering Jungle Cacti that are often referred to as “Mistletoe Cacti.” To care for these Cacti properly, it’s important to understand the specific needs epiphytic cacti. These are not your typical desert Cacti that love blazing sun, are covered with sharp spikes, and go for ages with dry air and little rain. Epiphytic Jungle Cacti like Rhipsalis live in the understory of dense, tropical forest. Their conditions are warm, humid, and the light is diffused by the living canopy under which they thrive. They attach to a host (like a tree), or in some cases, a rock (known as lithophyte) and rely upon the environment to bring nutrients and water to them through rainfall, insects, and animals. Tree crotches with an accumulation of decomposing organic nutrients are prime spots for a Rhipsalis to call home in the wild. They have unique adaptations that allow them to absorb nutrients in different ways than their terrestrial counterparts. Jungle Cacti produce small, hairlike roots, often from the ends of the stems, that not only can be used to for climbing but also for absorbing water and nutrients from the air. They are particularly adept at absorbing humidity and are less reliant on a traditional root system than other plants. For this reason, they are better suited to chunky planting mediums where their roots can absorb moisture when it passes through, but still receive oxygen at all other times. (You can find out how to make potting mix for epiphytic jungle cacti here.)
When I purchased my first Rhipsalis some time ago, I was advised that all I needed to remember is “dry shade.” I have followed this advice and been rewarded with growing, blooming Rhipsalis. “Dry” is in reference to the soil conditions, not the air. If you live in an area with dry air, misting helps, as the aforementioned hairlike roots that emerge from the tips of the stems can help hydrate the plant. And “shade” is NOT in reference to extra low light, but more to the understory where this plant lives naturally. Bright indirect light will do fine.
Many Rhipsalis can turn completely red or purple when stressed by too much sun. Though some plants can tolerate this, it isn’t the ideal situation. Most Rhipsalis would, once again, prefer consistently bright indirect light. Rhipsalis are generally, to those of us in North America, winter bloomers. Some varieties will bloom throughout the year, but fall and winter are a safe time to expect blooms on a healthy Rhipsalis.
All the plants listed here grow in a North facing Bay window where the light is consistent but mild. They have prospered in this environment, though it is not what I expected. I had a hard time wrapping my mind around the idea of a cactus that didn’t want to bask in the sun. I was certain that the North window couldn’t sustain these plants, but it has!
The Red List has some startling data on the decreasing numbers of Rhipsalis in the wild. You can find detailed information about the population trend of each plant, the habitat and ecology, and date of last assessment. This is critical reading for anyone who loves this Genus.
Rhipsalis Paradoxa.
This was my first Rhipsalis, and it kicked off my love for any and all Rhipsalis from that point forward. This is actually several plants, at least four or five, that I added together to create a fuller specimen. I’ve found it very difficult to find a full plant available for purchase, so this plant came together over time as I collected single rooted cuttings. A large plant, if you can find one, could cost over a hundred dollars or more. It might be more economical for you to collect smaller plants over time. The care is easy, and it doesn’t take up much of my time. Every week to every other week I check the plant, as well as most of the other rhipsalis, and water as needed. This plant is less likely than some of the others to wrinkle or pucker when it needs water, so I’m careful to feel for a softness in the stem. That’s a good sign that the plant needs to be watered. Unlike a few of my other Rhipsalis, I do water this plant through the drainage hole and allow it to sit for a few minutes with water in the saucer. This pot is shallow and since it has several small plants within, I find this to be the best way to ensure equal moisture to all of the plants in the pot.
Some Tips:
Build your plant over time if you can’t find a full specimen. Look out for small, hair-like protrusions from the modified stems of the plant. This could be a sign that you need more humidity or water for your plant.
Rhipsalis Pilocarpa.
This is actually three plants that I combined into one pot to create a fuller plant. The three seem to get along well, and even flowered at the same time. This plant is another that’s really easy to read when it’s time for watering. The stems pucker or wrinkle, and that’s the sign to water. The stems are covered with a soft white fuzziness, and the flowers are white. The plant will develop berries as well.
Some tips:
This plant can grow fast in the right conditions, so make sure you put it in a space where it has room to grow. I had this over an archway in my kitchen and later had to move it because it grew so long. The plant tolerated the move without a problem, but I stressed over relocating it. This can be true for all pendant Rhipsalis or Lepismuim, but this one grows fastest for me.
Rhipsalis Baccifera.
Rhipsalis Baccifera is stunning. In addition to being beauty, it’s low maintenance. The stems are juicy enough to show wrinkles when the plant needs to be watered. It grows pretty quickly and, along with Rhipsalis Cereuscula, it will soon need to be relocated to accommodate its size. This is a great place to start if you want to get into Rhipsalis. I have been able to find this plant easily, and it doesn’t have the insanely high cost like Rhipsalis Paradoxa. When watering this plant, I water through the drainage hole and also allow it a few minutes to sit with water in the saucer.
Some Tips:
This plant will occasionally drop tiny sections of modified stem. All Rhipsalis have this tendency, but this one seems to do so more often than the rest. This is one way the plant reproduces in the wild. I usually grab the tiny disconnected piece and put it back on top of the soil. It’s good to let the piece harden off for a day or two before putting it onto the soil. New growth from this plant will usually shoot straight up from the pot before growing more branches and eventually hanging, or becoming pendant.
Rhipsalis Capilliformis.
I’m not sure on the ID of this Rhipsalis. It’s much thinner and more fragile than R. Baccifera, although the look and habit are similar. The biggest difference is the width of the stems. This plant tends to dry out quickly and it needs more frequent watering than the other Rhipsalis in order to maintain hydration. I water through the drainage hole and let it sit with water in the saucer for up to 10 minutes. This allows equal moisture inside the pot, which this plant appreciates due to its tendency to dry out quickly. Because it is so fragile, the small stems can break off easily. I usually place the broken stems on top of the soil’s surface or stick them down into the soil and hope they’ll root. Typically, they do.
Some tips:
Using caution when moving the plant and making sure the plant doesn’t dry out are my two biggest points with this plant.
Rhipsalis Unknown.
This Rhipsalis of an unknown name has almost outgrown its home in my North bay window and will soon need to be relocated to a place where it can hang freely. I haven’t found this plant to be picky about watering, or anything else, for that matter. If I have the time to water it through the drainage hole and let it sit, then I do it. Other times, I just throw some water in the pot and this plant doesn’t protest with either method. It’s one of the more flexible when it comes to watering, and it still grows like a weed. This is another Rhipsalis that would be great to try if you’re looking for a place to start - if only I knew the name! Recently, in fact, I’ve seen this plant at Home Depot for around $6 per 4” pot. Unfortunately, those pots just say “cactus,” which hasn’t helped me with identification of this plant.
Some Tips:
Again, give this one some room to grow. Other than that, it’s easy and quite prolific. Let me know if you have an ID for this plant!
Rhipsalis Ramulosa.
I bought this as “Rhipsalis Romulosa - Red Mistletoe Cactus.” It does have a reddish cast, despite any light is does or doesn’t receive. It isn’t a fast grower, but occasionally I’ll see little round spots of new growth at the tips of the stems. The round dots grow over time and eventually begin to look like a new “finger” on the plant. I was told that this plant enjoys partial shade and prefers to dry between watering. I follow those guidelines and this plant seems to be happy.
Some Tips:
This plant has required patience that is uncharacteristic for other Rhipsalis I grow. IT isn’t one that’s showing new growth every day.
Rhipsalis Cereuscula.
R. Cereuscula is native to Brazil and Uruguay. It is also known as “Coral Cactus,” “Mistletoe Cactus,” or “Rice Cactus.” Though this Rhipsalis is typically round and bushy variety, it sends out longer “arms” that can get quite long and pendant. This R. Cereuscula has not yet become pendant. It’s bushy with hairs along the stems that are fewer and finer than Rhipsalis Pilocarpa. I haven’t found R. Cereuscula to be demanding at all. Like other Rhipsalis in my home, it’s easy and a joy to keep.
Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides.
Good thing this plant goes by “Clumpy Mistletoe Cactus,” because I’m not even going to attempt it’s full name out loud. It’s drought and heat tolerant and prefers bright indirect light or morning sun only, like most Rhipsalis. It’s not going to appreciate intense or direct light. Like many Rhipsalis, Mesembryanthemoides begins bushy, then more erect, and finally pendant. Also like many Rhipsalis, it’s great for a shelf or hanging basket. I haven’t had this plant long, so I can’t speak to watering patterns over time, but I do expect it to prefer to dry out between waterings like other Rhipsalis.
Some Tips:
Treasure it. This plant is critically endangered in its natural Brazilian home due to habitat loss.
Rhipsalis Ewaldiana.
The stems of Rhipsalis Ewaldiana are small, thin and mostly triangular. With the exception of Rhipsalis Capilliformis, these are the smallest of modified stems with some no larger than a toothpick. Though some look flat, it’s an optical illusion, at least on my plants. There’s a ridge on one side that completes the triangular formation. Ewaldina is a delicate looking beauty compared to the other oddities in the genus. Rhipsalis Pilocarpa and Baccifera took daily contact as I reached for spices in my kitchen area and they were no worse for the wear, but Ewaldiana looks too delicate to even graze. It isn’t too delicate, but I’m definitely not going to be storing my Thyme anywhere near this guy, just to be sure.
This plant is very content in a north facing window where it gets natural light from sunup to sundown. I used my epiphytic soil mix, and it’s watered slightly more often than the sturdier Rhipsalis both due to the tiny size of the modified stems and because it has a shallow pot that tends to dry out faster. Think Capilliformis with watering.
Rhipsalis Agudoensis.
The new growth on Rhipsalis Agudoensis is a striking deep orange, even reddish shade. It’s a sturdy plant with an upright habit. I expected more of a drape to the plant, but it’s happy to stand straight up. Rhipsalis Agudoensis isn’t a plant on the worry list. I feel like I could sweep the floor with it and it would be just fine. The shapes on the modified stems vary, some triangular and some elliptical. This seems like a plant that’s going to do whatever it wants, and I’m okay with that. I could be wrong, but I think it’ll eventually need to hang or sit on a shelf where it can drape.
Rhipsalis Clavata.
Rhipsalis Clavata is another low maintenance member of the Rhipsalis genus. It can be s difficult one to find for sale. It comes from the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. With more sun, the plant can take a pinkish cast. This plant lives between large east and north windows where it gets some morning sun. This has been an ideal location, and the plant has new growth. Rhipsalis Clavata is as fragile as it looks, in my experience. Like Rhipsalis Capilliformis, I avoid any contact with the plant unless I’m watering it or tending to it. This could be because I love this plant and don’t want to have to try to replace it.
Small white flowers emerge near the tips of the stems, and this Rhipsalis will form berries as Rhipsalis tend to do when they’re happy.
Rhipsalis Pentaptera.
The identification on this one isn’t certain, but I can’t find a closer fit. The ribs on the plant number 5-6 as they should on a Rhipsalis Pentaptera, but they aren’t deeply ridged. The ridges are soft, more like waves. This plant, whatever it is, is such an easy plant to keep. It lives in a north window and the light is sufficient. Recently I added a humidifier to the area just for good measure.
Rhipsalis Micrantha
Info Coming Soon.
Rhipsalis Lindbergiana
Coming Soon.
The North bay window where my Rhipsalis live. See hanging arms.
Rhipsalis Pilocarpa in bloom in November, 2019.
Left to Right: Rhipsalis Paradoxa, Rattail cactus, Rhipsalis Cereuscula, Rhipsalis Ramulosa, and Rhipsalis unknown.
Left to Right: Rhipsalis unknown, Rhipsalis Capilliformis, Rhipsalis Mesembryanthemoides.
Rhipsalis Ewaldiana before adding another plant and upgrading the pot.
Rhipsalis Agudoensis up close.
