Take Your Pick.

Hoya.

Hoya are a genus of mostly epiphytic plants that are members of the Apocynaceae family. Some ramble across rocky areas as lithophytes and fewer are terrestrial. As epiphytes, they rely on their adventitious roots to help them climb high into trees or other structures where they can attain greater access to light, water, and air flow. There are an unknown number of species, likely over 300. New and unnamed species are being identified consistently, and duplicate entries are being corrected. Hoya are native to many countries including India, Indonesia, Malasia and Thailand, to name a few. Hoya are also identified as “wax plant” or “wax flower” due to the waxy appearance of the leaves and flowers. Though Hoya vary greatly in appearance, they do have some common characteristics. They flower with nectar-producing clusters on a peduncle, or bloom spur. The peduncle should not be trimmed or removed after the flowers are spent as the plant will continue to bloom from the same peduncle many times over. Leaves are arranged in opposite pairs across the vine, though shapes and sizes can be dramatically different by species. They can be very large or very small, leathery, fuzzy, or waxy in texture, round or narrow.

When keeping Hoya indoors, there are a few things to keep in mind. Its better to underwater than overwater a Hoya. Most are slow growers with succulent leaves, so patience is required both in your expectations of the plants capacity for growth and also in your understanding of the plants need for water. Hoya, as epiphytes, do better when root bound as a general rule. This allows the plant to focus energy on growing vines and flowers rather than growing more roots. When potting Hoya, it’s a good idea to get them started in a pot and soil that will be their home for several years. They don’t have exceptionally high needs from their pot or soil, except in specific circumstances. Position Hoya in a spot that will allow as much bright indirect light as possible, with some species being accepting of a few hours of direct light.

If you don’t see the Hoya you’re looking for here, let me know! This is just a selection of the Hoya I grow and I’d be happy to include info on your Hoya if I have it!

Hoya Carnosa in Her Many Forms.

Hoya carnosa, sometimes called “Jade Green,” is a great starter Hoya for anyone who’s looking to get into the Hoya world. As many will tell you, once you have one Hoya, an obsession isn’t far behind. Hoya carnosa is a forgiving and tolerant plant. You can grow it in household conditions easily. With some light and love, it’ll even bloom. This is not a plant that requires complicated tents or indoor greenhouses to thrive. My Hoya carnosa blooms in a west window, which I have found to be an excellent general location for Hoya. Look for an east or west window or a south window with a sheer curtain. A north window can work to sustain the plant, but it might not be enough light for it to bloom depending on your geographic location.

Hoya carnosa “Chelsea” — *Hoya carnosa* “Chelsea”

Hoya “Chelsea” is a carnosa with gorgeous, cupped leaves. They have an endearing heart shape. The leaves are thick and have deeper divots within the cups. These leaves can tell us a lot about how to care for the plant. The thickness indicates that the plant can withstand some time between waterings. The medium shaped leaves are indicative of the amount of light the plant would like to receive. A large leaf has adapted to lower light conditions, whereas smaller leaves are conducive to higher light conditions because they have less surface area to synthesize light. Hoya “Chelsea” does well in east or west windows, and the leaves are especially great at wrinkling or going soft when it’s time to water the plant. If given favorable conditions, this plant can grow rapidly. The blooms, like all of those falling under Hoya carnosa will be pink and fragrant. You will know this plant likes you when you see the growth take off. If it’s sitting there like a plastic plant, don’t be afraid to move it to a different location. It’s adaptable and resilient. It won’t put up a huge fuss if it’s unsatisfied, and you’ll be rewarded with a happy, robust plant if it is satisfied.

Hoya Carnosa “Krimson Princess” has the same shape and growth habit as Hoya carnosa, but the leaves have yellow and white variegation on the inside of a green rimmed leaf. This is the physical difference between “Krimson Princess” and “Krimson Queen,” the Queen has the green on the inside and the Princess has it on the outside. This plant can also be called Hoya Carnosa “Rubra.” It is an easygoing houseplant that will thrive and bloom if given sufficient light. I have two of these plants. One is a slow grower in a north facing window. The plant is happy, but mostly inactive in terms of growth and blooming. The second princess is in an unobstructed east facing window where it happily grows, continuing to drape over the pot as it hangs.

Hoya carnosa “Krimson Queen” — *Hoya carnosa* “Krimson Queen”

This plant is a stunner. It shouldn’t be difficult to find, and the care is simple. Any variegated Hoya will appreciate more light than a green Hoya because the white (or pink!) portions can’t synthesize light. This plant might produce entire stems full of white and/or pink leaves. Some people choose to leave these vines and leaves in place, while others remove them because they take up valuable energy without doing their part to sustain the plant. They will eventually drop, but they’re gorgeous to look at before that day comes. I keep this plant in a west window in my kitchen where it’s very happy. It has an active peduncle that produces blooms once or twice in the summer. I have found Hoya carnosa to be summer bloomers in my environment.

Hoya carnosa “Compacta” can also be called “Rope Plant.” It is a one-of-a- kind plant that can be difficult to find in larger, mature size. It is known for being a slow grower. There are also two variegated forms of this plant, similar to the two variegated forms of Hoya carnosa (‘Krimson Queen,” and “Krimson Princess”) except the leaves have the compact form. Hoya carnosa “Compacta” doesn’t need to be babysat. The leaves will wrinkle when it needs watering. Some find this plant to be a magnet for bugs since it has so many small nooks and crannies within the leaves. I have not had this experience with my two plants, (fingers crossed!) but it can be treated with a solution of Castile soap, Neem oil, and water if necessary. I keep both of my plants in east windows, and although the growth is slow, I know it’s happening so I’m content.

The Rest of My Hoya Family.

*Hoya australis* ssp. Australis.

*Hoya australis* has several subspecies, Australis, Brookfield, Rupicola, and Tenuipes to name a few. Hoya australis is native to several regions of Australia, hence the name. It’s a really easy care plant, and a fast grower. Both of my plants are ssp. Australis. It has a vining habit. The vines like to curl around anything they can get a hold on, so a trellis would be a natural fit for this plant. This is a wild and rambling Hoya, so be prepared for it to take over a space if it’s happy. I have two of these plants, one in a north window and one in a west window and both are vigorous growers. It’s a versatile Hoya, as exemplified by the growth exhibited from my *Hoya australis* that grows like a weed in a north window. That particular plant requires less frequent watering as it takes in much less light. These plants have thin, waxy leaves that tell readily about the plant’s hydration requirements. If the leaves go limp, it’s time to water.

*Hoya ilagiorum*

I got this plant because it’s said to be an excellent houseplant, a fast grower and an easy bloomer. I haven’t had blooms yet, but I’ve found all the rest to be true. In the 2020 season, it put out two new vines which started coiling around anything within reach. A native of the Philippines, ilagiorum is also known as “Tomato Hoya” because it produces flowers in tomato red. It’s one of those plants that I don’t have to fuss over, it just grows and minds its own business. The leaves vary in width and have an irregular shape. They’re deep green, and tend to grow in clusters on the vine.
**Some tips:**
*Hoya ilagiorum* has thick, medium sized leaves. This tells us that it can tolerate drought by storing water in those fat leaves. The medium size of the leaves are an indication that the plant can tolerate moderate levels of sun. It’ll need more than a larger leaf Hoya, which needs all the surface area it can take to survive a shady environment. However, I have found that this plant can’t tolerate more intense light like some of my other Hoya. It did not appreciate a west window, and prefers the classic “bright indirect” light. I keep it in an east window where no direct rays are able to reach the plant. In higher light, this plant suffers wilted, lifeless leaves no matter how I maintain the water and humidity. This is another plant that is perfectly happy in regular household conditions, speaking of humidity. It is known for being tolerant. This Hoya does get soft, wrinkled leaves when it’s due for water. On more mature plants, the leaves grow in clusters on the vines. This Hoya has a vining habit, and it will climb and twine on anything nearby if it isn’t on a trellis or bamboo stake. If you don’t want it sharing real estate with a neighbor (like mine is) it’s best to provide it with a trellis to keep it busy.

Hoya cv. ‘Iris Marie’
*Hoya schneei* X *Hoya Cembra*

This Hoya is a Liddle hybrid, named after Iris Marie Liddle. It was formerly and sometimes is still referred to as *Hoya paziae*. ‘Iris Marie’ is delightful, easy to please, and a steady grower. The leaves are thin, lack succulence, and come to a graceful point. ‘Iris Marie’ has a vining or climbing habit. It isn’t a plant that will trail gracefully over the side of a pot, at least not in my experience. After I removed the growing stakes, the plant began to twine up the macrame hanger that holds her pot. Since last Spring, the most prolific vine has put out several inches of growth. I used to keep it in my north facing bay window, which isn’t an intense light. I have since moved it to an east window that it shares with *Hoya meliflua ssp fraterna*, *Hoya ‘Chelsea,’* *Hoya ilagorium*, and *Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf.’*
**Some Tips:**
Iris marie has thin leaves of a small to medium size. The thin leaves tell us that it doesn’t store much water and will therefore need more regular watering than a plant with thick leaves. The small to medium size of the leaves also tells us that this plant can tolerate bright to medium lighting conditions. Although I do bloom some Hoya in east windows, I don’t expect this plant to bloom unless I move it to higher light conditions. The east window setup fine to sustain this Hoya, so it’ll be healthy whenever I do decide to move it. I do have a Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf’ that is blooming in the same window where ‘Iris Marie lives, but the parasitica is a very different plant that requires different conditions to thrive. Also noteworthy, this plant doesn’t have the “look” of a Hoya, so to speak. This is, for lack of a better term, a very basic looking plant. If you are looking for ease, this is a great choice, but if you’re looking for a more classic Hoya appearance, the thin leaves and nondescript vines might not satisfy you.

20140228_Trade 151_0046.jpg — *Hoya krohniana*

*Hoya krohniana* is a former member of the *Hoya lacunosa* grouping, previously going by the name “Heart Leaf Lacunosa.” It has many similarities to H. Lacunosa, but somewhere along the way it was determined to have enough differences to earn its own name. This is *Hoya krohniana*, but also on the market are H. krohniana “Eskimo” with heavy white markings on the leaves, and H. krohniana “Black Leaves,” which has very dark olive leaves. *Hoya krohniana* is native to Southeast Asia. This plant hangs in an east window where it gets some direct morning sun. I water it whenever I have time to climb up on a chair and check the leaves and soil. It’s easy to keep and the leaves are very telling. Once they begin to show wrinkling, it’s time to water. This system has worked, and the plant developed a peduncle and bloomed in a short period of time. Since the first peduncle and bloom, this plant has bloomed non-stop, all year round. It is a very satisfying plant to grow, and excellent for a beginner. The unique color and texture to the leaves provides enough visual interest to keep more experienced growers interested as well.
For more tips and information on *Hoya krohniana*, please check my in-depth blog post here. You will find details on the exact conditions I have kept for this plant to grow and bloom.

*Hoya linearis*

For an in depth analysis on growing this plant indoors, check out my blog post on Hoya linearis. Below you can find general info, but for greater detail on care conditions and blooming, read the blog post.
Hoya Linearis was my top wishlist plant, and I’m so happy that it has lived up to every dream and expectation I had. This plant is from the high altitudes in the Himalayas, so it is comfortable with cooler nighttime temps. The long, thin leaves are covered in a fine fuzz, and new growth is extra fuzzy and looks like a little doe foot. The plant has produced several peduncles, but is generally slow to fill them with blooms. In my climate, this plant is a winter bloomer. The blooms come near the start of the new year. The plant lives in a west window where it gets some dappled sunlight through a large tree outside. This plant is great at giving signals when it needs water. The leaves look wilted, and the plant has a more limp appearance. The day after watering, it bounces back and looks as vibrant as ever.
This is a unique Hoya in look, feel, and care. I have found, in general, that it’s best to find just the right conditions and then leave it alone. I have heard that you can check the firmness of the narrow leaves to determine the need for water, but I just go by the look. It will wilt when it’s ready. Seeing as how this plant is originally from the mountains of the Himalayas, that speaks to a specific set of care needs. In the higher altitudes, the conditions are humid and swing from high to low temperatures based on day or night, respectively. I recommend a humidifier for this plant. I have kept it in steady humidity for months. After seeing the plant look a little less vibrant if I forget to fill the humidifier, I can tell it’s necessary for *Hoya linearis.*
I’m on the fence about declaring that this is a plant that can be fully sustained by regular household conditions. Because it grows so fast, I have made several propagations of the plant. One has ended up inside one of my greenhouse cabinets where it thrives in the extra humidity and predictable conditions. If you have trouble with it in normal household conditions, and you need an insurance policy on your plant, it wouldn’t hurt to provide it with special growing conditions like a greenhouse cabinet or a grow tent. It has bloomed in my regular conditions, though it did drop several peduncles before it did so. It’s possible.

*Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf’*

This plant also goes by the name H. Acuta, but I bought mine as H. Parasitica. It lives in an east facing window where it gets a little bit of direct sun. It’s been a very slow grower, but it’s consistently a content plant that doesn’t ask for much. I don’t water this one as often as some of the thin leafed Hoyas that live in the same window.. The leaves are especially firm and they don’t wrinkle or go soft very often. As of summer 2021, it has developed its first peduncle and is setting up to bloom. This is a pleasant surprise, because the plant isn’t one of my more active growers.
**Some Tips:**
This plant is especially drought tolerant in my conditions. The leaves are plump and indicate that drought tolerance is a natural adaptation for this plant. The vines are substantially woody and inflexible once hardened. I used to provide supplemental humidity, which I did not find to be necessary for this plant. I stopped for the summer, but I’ll pick it back up in the winter. This is a slow grower and I sometimes get “plastic plant” vibes from it, although it does have some new growth happening. It isn’t a plant that will put out two fresh leaves overnight, at least in my experience. It has taken more patience. This is why the peduncle came as such a surprise. Stay tuned for updates once it develops flowers.

*Hoya Potsii* sp. 22 Khao Yai

This plant is named for the Khao Yai Forest in Thailand, where it was first discovered. I love it more than I expected. The leaves have a unique elongated form and some of the mature leaves are huge. The new leaves are a deep maroon, though this could be because the plant gets a lot of bright light from a south window. When watering, I check to be sure the leaves wrinkle or bend easily as a sign that the plant needs hydration. They aren’t shy about wilting when it’s time to water. This plant is one of the few in my collection that has lived in the same spot since I got it. The south window has been good for it, and it’s grown rapidly. As of summer 2021, it has developed a peduncle that’s about to burst any moment. This plant will be my next Hoya “Plant Profile,” so look for that soon. I am excited to do some more research on the plant, and share what has been successful in growing and blooming this Hoya indoors.

*Hoya multiflora*

I don’t have this plant figured out just yet. It’s very different than most Hoya I own. The leaves are thin and feel almost papery. Because the leaves aren’t thick and succulent, I water this plant more than most of my Hoya. Also known as “Shooting Star Hoya,” this plant has clusters of yellow and white flowers that look like the name suggests. Many say it flowers easily, and though I’ve seen a lot of growth on my plant, it has yet to flower. This plant is of Indonesian origin and appreciates bright indirect light.
Update: I never felt a connection with this plant. I gave it to someone who would be appreciative of this type of Hoya, and the last I heard, it was doing well.

Hoya “Rebecca”

I purchased this plant as H. Sipitangensis, but I disagree with that identification. I think looks an awful lot like H. “Rebecca,” which would be a cross of H. Lacunosa ‘Langawi Island’ X *Hoya obscura*, according to VermontHoyas.com. After scrutinizing many flowers from this plant, I started calling it “Rebecca.” It lives in an east window where it has flowered and grown even more peduncles. In a few months, it has gone from one to more than ten peduncles. The original peduncle has already bloomed and dropped this year, and all the rest are in some stage of continual bloom. It isn’t the most glamorous looking Hoya, but for growth and blooming, it really delivers.
For more information on this species, please visit the blog post dedicated to this plant here. You can learn more about the plant ID, as well as a deeper investigation into this plant.

*Hoya pubicalyx*

I’m not sure which variety of H. Pubicalyx I have. I purchased it at nursery in Indiana and it was not labeled. It lives in a west window in my upstairs hall where it gets nice light. It loves to climb the macrame hanger, and I’ve trimmed it back a couple of times to maintain the size. I love the pattern of the leaf splash. Pubicalyx, at least in my area, is a fairly easy Hoya to find. Since the care is easy, it seems to be a popular plant, and for good reason.

Hoya “Mathilde”
*Hoya carnosa* X *Hoya serpens*

Hoya ‘Mathilde’ is a hybrid that resulted from the cross of *Hoya carnosa* and *Hoya serpens*. The flowers look like those of Hoya Carnosa, just smaller. ‘Mathilde’ has a sister, a seedling that came from the same pod, named ‘Chouke.’ Though ‘Chouke’ still has small leaves like ‘Matilde,’ the leaves have a sharper point like parent plant H. Carnosa, whereas ‘Mathilde’ tends to have more rounded leaves like parent plant H. Serpens. I recently got ‘Chouke,’ so I’m giving her time to acclimate before I write about what I’ve seen and observed from her. Stay tuned.
I was worried that ‘Mathilde’ might be a difficult plant, and I’m glad that I was wrong. I had success with her in regular household conditions, but I was looking for more variety in my greenhouse cabinets as they were being taken over by Begonias. I put ‘Mathilde’ in the greenhouse cabinet because her parent plant *Hoya serpens* had been doing so well there. Now ‘Mathilde’ is growing like crazy in the greenhouse cabinet, so I keep her there even though it might not be necessary.
**Some tips:**
I’ve learned not to let ‘Mathilde’ dry out too much. I use a smaller terra-cotta pot with very well draining soil, so if you like to use all of those precautions like me, keep a close eye on the watering. When ‘Mathilde’ is thirsty, she won’t wrinkle as much as her leaves will deflate and veins will appear. This is a cue for me to water.

*Hoya wayetii*

This plant receives light from an east window and retains its green leaves. However, with more light, the leaves will have a dark brownish-black rim around the edge. With even more light, the leaves will be red with a darker edge. Both *Hoya longifolia* and *Hoya kentiana* are often confused for *Hoya wayetii* and vice versa. It’s difficult to know exactly what you’re getting, even if the plant is labeled at the time of purchase. For tips on how to tell the three plants apart, read my blog post on Hoya wayetii variegata, where I get into the differences between the above mentioned plants. Regardless, this plant looks beautiful hanging. The leaves form a cascade of pointed leaves that looks striking from across the room. Growth was moderate in the cooler months, but in the summer, this plant can really take off. The new leaves emerge thinner and then thicken with time. Over the winter, typically a leaf will pop up here and there, but in the summer, several inches of leafless vine have shot out and slowly filled in with green leaves.
**Some tips:**
Though the summer vines are everywhere on this plant, it doesn’t show any interest in using them to climb or spiral around the hanger. It seems to be naturally a hanging plant. The leaves are thick and heavy, but with more regular watering I do see more growth. The plant is versatile with light. You can read how much light it’s been receiving based on the green, green with dark rim, or reddish leaves. In my experience, you are more likely to have a plant with blooms if the light is higher. This plant takes some direct morning sun and this same window has been sufficient to bloom other Hoya in my house, but not this one yet. This leads me to believe that the plant could tolerate even higher light than my east window provides. For more specific details on all of the above, including blooming, check out my blog post linked above.

*Hoya retusa*

Hoya Retusa has been a constant struggle for me. I just can’t figure out what it wants. Originally from India, H. Retusa is said to prefer warm days and cool nights. When I purchased the plant, the seller told me to give it lots of sun and humidity. It lives next to other plants who demand similar conditions, but Retusa is far more fussy than the rest. It just seems, in my conditions, to be a plant that dries out regardless of water and humidity. I still have hope for it, and I’ll probably try putting it on the porch in a last ditch effort to revive it.
**Update:**
Hoya Retusa is loving life outside.
**Update Summer 2021:**
I finally accepted that this plant and I were not a match and I donated her to a local organization with a huge tropical plant collection.

*Hoya lacunosa ‘Snow Caps’*

I love this plant. I hesitated to buy it, but I’m so glad I ended up bringing it home. This is a Costa Farms EA plant that came in a very full 8” pot. It’s always lived in a South window, just off to the side so it doesn’t take any direct sun but it gets tons of light. It’s bloomed constantly since I’ve had it, usually on peduncles that it grew during the winter! Like Hoya krohniana, it blooms all year in my house. The leaves are thin, and it benefits from being watered thoroughly. The combination of smaller thinner leaves plus the high light environment makes me extra attentive to this plant hydration levels being properly maintained. It doesn’t live near a humidifier, though I do mist it occasionally just to refresh the leaves.
**Some tips:**
Small leaves mean that this plant can take the higher light of the south window, but the thin leaves mean she needs to be hydrated more often. Other than that, this plant doesn’t ask for much.

*Hoya incressata albomarginata*

This plant came from KOKO Ranch Hoyas, which I love and check regularly for the unique plants they offer. It was in a north bay window which was sufficient enough light for several new leaves to grow. Some of the leaves have gorgeous definition between the white and green, but other leaves might need a boost of light to make the variegation pop. I have since moved it to a west window where it has grown much faster and maintained variegation more successfully. I was excited to see this plant available as it isn’t one I’ve come across frequently. If you see it available, it would make a great addition to your collection due to the pretty variegation and ease of care. The leaves are oddly shaped and colored, and each one is different than the next. The vines and leaves are both firm and don’t take shape on the trellis easily. I just clip a vine into place with a butterfly clip, and allow the leaves to turn to the light on their own. It has a few promising new growth points, so I’m excited to see how this one develops.
**Some tips:**
If this plant doesn’t get enough light, it will lose variegation in the new growth. The plant will need more chlorophyll to sustain its needs and will forego the variegation to produce efficient green leaves. If you notice this happening, relocate the plant to a location with higher light.

Hoya skinneriana “Dee’s Big One”

Coming Soon.

*Hoya longifolia*

This Hoya is also known as *Hoya shepherdii* or “the Green Bean Hoya, ” or “String Bean Hoya.” It is sometimes confused for *Hoya wayetii*, though the leaves are longer and thinner than those of H. Wayetii. H. Longifolia was discovered in the Himalayas of India. It isn’t an especially fast grower, but it is consistent. The vines are substantial and woody when mature, and the flowers are small and light pink. It doesn’t mind drying out between watering in the winter, but I have been watering more often in the summer when this plant is in constant bloom. The foliage is thick and looks waxy. I keep this plant in a west window with my orchids, and both species are very content with this location and show it with their steady blooms.
You can read more about Hoya Longifolia here. If you need more information on differentiating this plant from H. wayetii or H. kentiana, check here.

*Hoya wayetii variegata*

*Hoya wayetii variegata* starts new leaves in deep maroon, they eventually soften to hot pink, and then reach maturity in shades of green and yellow. The colorful foliage is so attractive, and sunlight broadens the range of colors this plant produces. This is another Hoya that is often confused for H. kentiana, in fact, there’s some dispute over H. kentiana and H. wayetii being the same plant. I definitely see the similarities in leaf shape and texture. Check here for details on the differences between the two plants. H. wayetii grows steadily for me after relocating her to a west window. Prior to that, growth was slow. Now that she’s in a happier place, even in the winter months, I see growth happening, but it isn’t fast growth. It’s just enough to let you know it’s still with you. This plant has thrived in the west window as compared to the east, and it produces leaves of many colors.
Again, there’s a full blog post on this plant where you can learn all about the care info for this plant indoors as well as see the blooms and hear my tips on blooming indoors. You can read it here.

*Hoya curtisii*

*Hoya curtisii* has been a challenge, but we’re somehow getting through it together. Things are now taking off in dramatic fashion. More on that soon! In the past, I felt like it was always on the verge of taking a turn for the worst, but it just keeps hanging on. I’ve heard many different stories of success with this plant. It seems there’s no “one size fits all” for Curtisii. Some have advised that it loves to be watered very often, others have advised to let it dry completely between watering. I try to keep it somewhere in the middle. The real positive improvement came when I moved this huge plant into my greenhouse cabinet. This move was literally a lifesaver for the plant. After months, maybe even years of barely hanging on, this plant now has vines that are feet in length. I would most definitely recommend special growing conditions like a greenhouse cabinet or a grow tent for this plant. I’m sure there are people out there who grow it in regular household conditions, but my plant needed that extra boost of humidity plus that *just right* glow of the grow lights to start living its best life.
The root system can be shallow on H. Curtisii, so I keep it in a wide, shallow pot so it has more room to creep. It does love to creep, by the way. Even inside my greenhouse cabinet, this plant loves to climb other plants, or even the walls of the cabinet. It has remarkably sticky little fingers, and it uses them to travel around.
**Some Tips:**
Curtisii has tiny leaves and they’re very firm with regular watering. This would indicate that the plant can take higher sun and more drought. I’ve kept this plant in medium everything *except humidity.* It really loves humidity.

Tips, Tricks, and Blooming.

-Hoya are used to roots that breathe. Your potting mix is key for this. Visit our soil page for a recipe specifically for Hoya.

-As for pots, terra-cotta are crucial, in my experience. You might have heard something about terra-cotta being hazardous to Hoya root systems because they can stick and tear. First of all, if you grow a Hoya in plastic, glazed, or terra-cotta pots, this is always a risk. Why? Hoya roots are meant to be sticky. Their function is to stick as an epiphyte. I have rooted Hoya in plastic cups and roots stick to this as well despite its glossy finish. Second, it isn’t necessary to be repotting your Hoya often enough for this to be a significant issue.

-So why terra-cotta? It is fired clay, which is an organic, breathable material. It allows air flow to the roots far more than plastic or glazed pots. It also absorbs water as a tree host might in the wild, and it prevents pockets of water from sitting against non-porous plastic.

-Don’t over pot. Finding a pot with an inch or so clearance inside for you to fill with fresh potting mix will make your Hoya happy. Don’t strip your plant of all existing potting mix. Gently shake free the loose mix and replace it with fresh potting mix.

-The root system is worth so much of our time because without a healthy root system, you won’t have a healthy plant. Spend the time to choose the correct pot and potting mix, and you’ll have a luscious, growing plant. Hoya like to feel secure before they start blooming.

-Be consistent once your pot and potting mix are set. Check the leaves for wrinkles if applicable to gauge the Hoya’s need for water.

-If you have a mature Hoya that either has peduncles or you feel that it should be at a stage where it’s growing peduncles, but you don’t have flowers, check your light. More light is probably what your Hoya needs. Try an east or west window. Read more about light here, if necessary.

-Certain Hoya are reliable bloomers in standard household conditions. This means temperatures from roughly 60-70 degrees, and humidity levels less than 50%. Consistently blooming in either east or west windows for me are:

Hoya “Rebecca”
Hoya krohniana
Hoya longifolia
Hoya carnosa “Jade Green”
Hoya Sp. aff. burtoniae

-Honorable mentions to these guys for growing peduncles in regular household conditions. The bloom watch is on for:

Hoya ‘Chouke’

Hoya ‘Chelsea’

-Hoya that require special conditions like higher humidity (looking at you, Hoya Retusa) are less likely to become a go-to bloomer. This doesn’t mean it’ll never happen.

Want to talk more about Hoya? Me too. Contact me here. You can also find me on Instagram, where I love talking plants!

Take Your Pick.

Hoya parasitica “Heart-leaf”

Hoya.

Hoya Carnosa in Her Many Forms.

The Rest of My Hoya Family.

Hoya australis ssp. Australis.

Hoya ilagiorum

Hoya cv. ‘Iris Marie’

Hoya schneei X Hoya Cembra

Hoya krohniana

Hoya linearis

Hoya parasitica ‘Heart Leaf’

Hoya Potsii sp. 22 Khao Yai

Hoya multiflora

Hoya “Rebecca”

Hoya meliflua ssp. Fraterna

Hoya pubicalyx

Hoya “Mathilde”

Hoya carnosa X Hoya serpens

Hoya wayetii

Hoya retusa

Hoya lacunosa ‘Snow Caps’

Hoya incressata albomarginata

Hoya serpens

Hoya sp. aff. burtoniae

Hoya skinneriana “Dee’s Big One”

Hoya longifolia

Hoya wayetii variegata

Hoya ‘Chouke’

Hoya curtisii

Tips, Tricks, and Blooming.

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